The river puzzle in the west of Montenegro sounds something like this:
Piva is a river with five names in a broader view. In Šćepan Polje, it joins the Tara River and forms the Drina. The river Komarnica and the smaller Sinac forms Piva. Komarnica rises under the Durmitor saddle (Dragišnica), but it is an extension of Bukovica, and Bukovica originates from the Tušina river, which rises on Sinjajevina. If this entire river system is considered unique, from Tušina to Piva, its course is 120 km long.
It’s complicated, right?
Where one of these rivers begins and ends is not important. What sets the Komarnica River apart from the mosaic of emerald mountain rivers of Montenegro is the impressive canyon along its entire length, without human influences in and around the river bed itself.
The eastern cliffs of the canyon are the shores of the Piva and Durmitor mountain plateau. West of the canyon is Mount Vojnik. At the foot of Vojnik lies a vast field. Rare settlements, such as the villages of Brezna and Duži, are located high above the canyon, leaving the river clean and untouched.
Komarnica Canyon is a reflection of the last wilderness in Montenegro. There are no roads or bridges – human activity as such is limited to elevations significantly above the canyon itself, depriving the canyon of its destructive influence. Komarnica is consequently a valuable habitat for endemic flora and fauna.
Now comes the terrifying part of the story. All of the above will become a thing of the past if the infamous plan to build a dam 150 meters high and turn Komarnica into an artificial lake is fulfilled. The project is well ahead.
Gigo Bulajić from Nikšić, a passionate kayaker, lives for nature and is an unwavering fighter to save Komarnica from destruction. Can we even imagine that Slovenia sinks the valley of Soča? Of course not. Sustainable development, focused on nature in cooperation with the local population – this is what Komarnica deserves and what Gigo and the team gathered around the movement “Save Komarnica” insist on and persevere in.
To go down Komarnica by kayak, you must first descend to the river on foot, from the top of Brezna village, carrying all the necessary equipment. For the river ride on the rapids of the cold mountain rivers, we use “portable inflatable rubber kayaks” – in English “pack rafts”. A pack raft is stable, maneuverable, and more suitable for the inexperienced, unlike a “hard” kayak for wild waters.
Komarnica is not very fast. It is characterized by a shallow cascading flow, with alternating beech trees (class II and III – June) and a calm “green” flow of the river, making it ideal for beginners.
The cliffs of the canyon viewed from a frog’s perspective seem monumental and unyielding – the general impression is more intense than the previous day at Tara, the primary rafting destination. Boats, šljivovica brandy, and improvised bars in the middle of the canyon, all these sights adorn the river section from Bršćanovica to Šćepan polje. There is no such thing here in Komarnica – we are completely alone in the canyon, it is a great privilege to be in a place like this!
However, in addition to all the beauty, we should not forget that the canyon as such represents a hostile environment. The water temperature does not exceed 10 degrees even in the middle of summer – dry neoprene suits are an integral part of the equipment. As soon as the sun disappears or in the case of rain, hypothermia and landslides are a potential danger.
Gigo knows the river and is the only one who organizes pack raft tours in Komarnica. The duration of the tour is expertly timed to 3-4 hours, leaving room for enjoyment but respecting the environment in which we are. After the last rapid, the water will suddenly become slow and calm. This is already the artificial lake of Piva, and our “extraction point”. We are awaited by a motorboat, it’s insane to paddle another 12 kilometers in a short rubber kayak on calm water.
Refreshments and dry clothes await us on the boat. Even when the heat is raging in the cities of the region, it is an incredible 20 degrees lower in the canyon! This is another world.
Bewildered by what I have seen and experienced, I wonder:
Is it possible that all this will just sink into gigawatts of electric power and make Ritch a very narrow circle of people? What benefit will the two thousand inhabitants of the municipality of Šavnik have? Nature lovers from all over Europe travel thousands of kilometers to Montenegro in search of wilderness, solitude, and happiness.
